Home page of Satellite Internet and Information

Satellite Internet Forum.

Welcome, Guest.
Welcome to this satellite broadband discussion forum. Wherever you are and whatever your problem we are here to help each other. Connecting to the internet via satellite is not always easy but is critically important to those in remote places or with poor terrestrial infrastructure. Both service providers and customers are encouraged to contribute. Register at the bottom of the forum home page if you wish to contribute or ask question. Read the Forum rules.
      Satellite Internet Forum : Home Page          
Pages: 1

Converting a Ku Band Antenna to C Band

(Read 7569 times)
Ex Member
Ex Member


Jan 23rd, 2009 at 7:42pm  
Dear Friends…

I would like to ask if it’s possible to convert a Ku Band

Antenna to be use as a C Band Antenna? Lets take an

example a Ku Band 2.4M antenna,

Could it be converted to rework with C Band? I mean

should I just change the Feed Horn or there is a need

to do something else? 

Is there any different in the measurements between

the 2.4M antennas for KU band and the one for the C

Band?

Are their any recommendations regarding this topic?

Are their any case studies regarding this topic?

Regards…

Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
Ex Member
Ex Member


Reply #1 - Jan 23rd, 2009 at 11:48pm  
Hi,

Contact your antenna manufacturer and ask for the conversion kit. Usually it should be a simple feed replacement, however much depends on the antenna make/model.

Good luck.
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
Ex Member
Ex Member


Reply #2 - Feb 4th, 2009 at 9:35am  
Dear Max...

i followed your advice and even get the converation kit from the provider but when  the work is done i was faced with a very strange problem which is that the isolation never goes above 20 db and the it is not acceptable by the satalite provider, any advices?
i will try to obtain some images for the ODU.
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
Eric Johnston
Senior Member
***
Offline


Personal text from Profile,
Options, Top line

Posts: 2108
Reply #3 - Feb 4th, 2009 at 11:09am  
Yes, please send close up detailed photos of the feed assembly and the joints, from many directions.

An accurate side on view of the entire dish and feed might help also so that distances A, B, C, D from dish edges to the feed edges can be measured from the image.  Have the camera in line with the front face side edges of the dish.

At the circular/square joint between the polariser and the feed horn it is important that the joint is accurately centered and straight.  Normally the screws will force the centering to be accurate but if there is any slack then you must carefully make sure that the two parts line up, like to 0.001 inch.  Regarding straightness, there may be a circular gasket.  The screws need tightening evenly so that the thickness of the gasket is the same all around.  The gasket itself must be central and not misplaced sideways.

At the rear end of the polariser, where the OMT attaches, the linear polarisation waveguides should be at 45 deg to the polariser pins/slots.  Normally the screw will make his accurate.

As you have replaced a Ku band feed with a C band feed there is scope for doubt about the position of the feed horn, relative to the dish.  Did you need a new feed support arm or side structs ?  If the distance from the horn to the dish is wrong or the feed horn is sideways from the focal point of the dish, you will suffer low gain and cross pol problems.  

Do you have documentation about the antenna showing pictures of the C band feed arm and dish so you can assess if the feed is in the correct place and pointing towards the center (or a fraction above the centre of the dish ?  What is the manufacturer and model number of the dish and feed parts?.

Do you have a transmit reject filter installed between the OMT and the LNB?  Is it the right way round ?  

The polariser should be straight.  Bending it or squeezing it in the middle will alter the cross-pol.  The weight of the OMT/BUC/LNB may be bending it down.  Does is need a support at the back end?  You could try rotating the entire feed assembly to various angles.  It should not make any difference but the weight change might make it bend better, or less!   Make sure the yoke clamps are gently tight.  If you screw them down too hard you will squash the tube and make an unwanted polariser.

There should be no loose screws or washers inside anywhere. Lumps of grease at the flanges/gaskets should also be avoided.

You could try attaching the OMT to the polariser at 180 deg to its present position.  It should not make any difference, but it might.

Picture of someone else's C band circular polarisation feed assembly:
...
Best regards, Eric.
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
Ex Member
Ex Member


Reply #4 - Feb 4th, 2009 at 12:59pm  
In addition, what is the make/model of the antenna? Some Chinese-manufactured antennas are not performing as well as popular Western brands such as, for example, Prodelin. We recently did an LBA and a 2.4m C-Band from a well known Chinese manufacturer (won't name it here to make sure I don't run into trouble) has delivered really poor cross-pol.
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
Ex Member
Ex Member


Reply #5 - Feb 26th, 2009 at 12:11pm  
20 dB is good for a 1.6dB axial ratio feed system, in my travels I have come across less some not making 17dB.

Maxim cited an un-named Chinese manufacturer and I have also seen this. I worked on a Suman 2.4M Antenna  which was using a nylon dialectric plate as the polariser and it was very poor. I doubt we achieved better than 16dB isolation.

The Prodelin feeds (as seen in the picture offered by Eric) provide a  1.6dB axial ratio (on Tx) which again is less than 20dB to get better than this you need a significantly more expensive feed.

For the technical amongst you there ia a page on this very site that gives you the calculations .. < http://www.satsig.net/axial.htm >   Smiley

There are other things you can try Mr Bomba ... the feeds isolation will not be truly circular but ellipsodial, so rotating the feed to align with the satellite will give you a little more isolation, but will probably never get above 20dB.

Alternatives would be to ask for segment without an Orthognal transponder. Other than that you need a larger reflector and a better feed.
--
Mik the Dish


Back to top
« Last Edit: Feb 26th, 2009 at 7:03pm by Admin1 »  
 
IP Logged
 
Ex Member
Ex Member


Reply #6 - Mar 9th, 2009 at 6:38pm  
Dear all ...
Thanks a lot for the information and I had some good news, I did complete the first site of this swap and first the isolation was 20 but after trying to rotate the feed it reached 27 which is perfect with me.  Thanks lot for your support and knowledge sharing.
BR...
Ashraf
Back to top
« Last Edit: Mar 10th, 2009 at 8:04pm by Admin1 »  
 
IP Logged
 
Pages: 1